This market town used to be of massive strategic importance and the Norman castle looms over Swaledale quite ominously on a grey day. Visitors to the town will not want to miss seeing the castle, and English Heritage have made a real effort to bring its history to life - a definite family pleaser. Unusually for EH, dogs are allowed too.   The town has a lot to offer, with pubs, cafes, tea rooms and restaurants - and good picnic provisioning - plus interesting military history connections and a regimental museum.